While I was getting ready for Dragon*Con (and I swear I will one day stop chattering about the con, even though it was better than Christmas at Disneyland) I was looking for a lanyard for my badge since I knew it would not come with one. I couldn’t really find any in the stores that I liked, most were made of this wide nylon ribbon/belt-webbing hybrid that looked stiff and itchy (not to mention ugly.) Being who I am, I dug through my yarn stash to see what I could come up with and crocheted myself a lanyard.

Let’s see – would I rather wear this or something that feels like it was handcrafted out of used shoelaces?

The end result was lovely; soft and comfortable, but above all washable. You would not believe how sweaty and nasty mine got over the course of the con, but I just stuck it in a sock, safety-pinned the top shut, and washed it with my unmentionables. It came out fresh as a daisy!

I had several people compliment me on it at the con, so I thought I would share a pattern of sorts.

Among the random balls I have bought just because they are pretty are a couple of balls of this delicious microfiber yarn from Deborah Norville’s Serenity collection, the labels say “Garden” for some reason and they’re a #2 weight. (I’m not getting anything for this endorsement, but it is lovely stuff; very nice color saturation, beautiful sheen, great hand, and softer than a kitten eating marshmallows. It reminds me of the super-expensive pima cotton I’ve seen, but is much more reasonable in price if you can catch it on sale.)

I had previously opened and played around with my rainbow-colored (the official name of the colorway is “Gems” but it’s rainbow-colored) skein, so I decided to pick up my E hook and see what I could do. Since I didn’t really have a pattern, just a vague idea, I have attempted to recreate my steps to share this pattern. My half-hearted Google searches turned up no similar patterns for crocheted lanyards, so this might be an overlooked area of the hobby.


Yarn (obviously) – I do not recommend worsted for this as the resulting strap would be pretty wide, but it’s up to you. The length needed depends upon the length of the strap, but I probably used less than a third of a 185-yard skein for mine.

Hook(again, obviously) – Use a hook recommended for the yarn’s weight and if you tend to work tight, move up a hook size.

Hardware – you will need a hook or clasp of some kind, if you like to work cheap you could cannibalize an  old lanyard or keychain.

Yarn needle – For sewing up the loose ends.

PATTERN – all hdc worked through both loops

Ch 2, leaving a long tail

Row 1 – 2 hdc in second chain from hook, turn (2)

Row 2 – ch 2, 1 hdc in each stitch across, turn (2)

Row 3 – ch 2, 2 hdc in each stitch across, turn (4)

Row 4 – ? – ch 2, hdc across, turn

The number of rows depends entirely on how long you want the lanyard to be, I just kept going until I got back to the same color I began with and ended up with something around thirty-two inches long (sixteen when folded in half.) I suggest checking every so often to see how it fits. Once the strap is almost long enough, it should be about an inch short, stop repeating Row 3 and move on to joining the two ends.


Fold strap in half with the sides parallel to each other with working edge lined up with with Row 4, just above the point formed by the first rows. The fold at the middle of the strap should form a little triangle when flattened, this will ensure that the strap lays flat against your neck and chest.

Like so.

This is the strap I made for my keys, since I forgot what I did the first time. The two ends are more obvious because of the color differences and you can better see how they join and you can see the little triangle at the fold.

The working loop should be on the inside beside Row 4. (Here’s where things get tricky. I’ll do my best to describe what I did.)

Slip-stitch twice on the side of Row 4 (this counts as your ch2) skip the first st, hdc across remaining stitches, turn (3)

Ch 2,  skip first stitch, hdc across, sl st twice on side of Row 2 (counts as ch 2) turn (2)

Hdc across, turn (2)

Ch 2, hdc across entire strap (4) Repeat row 2-3 times, depending on the hardware you are using for your fastener. Fasten off, leaving a long tail.

You should now have a folded strap joined together at an elongated triangle.

This is the “back” which a bit messier than the front.

The “front”. If the yarn wasn’t variegated, the joined area would be less noticeable.

Thread whatever hardware you are using through the skinny portion of the triangle and fold the fabric towards the back.

Like so.

Use the long tails to sew the flap down – really go nuts. You can’t make it too strong. Tie off and clip threads.

TA-DA! You are now finished!

This way might seem overly complicated to most people as it would be far easier to simply taper both ends, bind off, and then sew them together. I did try it that way to begin with, but I hated the finished product. The edges where the two ends were sewn together formed a very obvious seam, using the fussy method described above it is difficult to tell where the two ends meet unless you examine the piece closely.

The original ended up a touch too narrow for the hardware I used, but it worked fine.

The width of the strap depends largely on the yarn and hook used, I made a smaller strap for my work keys using the same yarn but a slightly larger hook and it is wider that the original.

Oh, look – it’s a picture of my con badge. How did that get in here?